Food Story’s authentic Hyderabadi cuisine is delicious
enough to move you…
Subhash S. is a
restaurateur par excellence. His resume boasts of his still-popular 20-year old
restaurant ‘Eden Park’ in Bengaluru and 15-year old recently closed iconic 800 cover
restaurant ‘Our Place’ in Hyderabad. He set his eyes on Pune for his next
culinary venture. Enter ‘Food Story’. June has brought with it not only the
monsoons but this old-world Hyderabadi restaurant for the city’s gourmands.
The restaurant name and
décor does not trigger preconceived notions of the cuisine it serves or the
kind of experience it will offer. This is deliberate. Subhash wants you to walk
in hungry and with a clean slate. We concluded the interiors to be simple,
toned-down and unassuming; the only striking elements being two 19th
century-esque chandeliers. The variety of dishes for both non-vegetarians and
vegetarians is inviting and enticing. Subhash is hands-on and was rearing to serve
us. We happily rested our trust in his recommendations of dishes for our
evening.
Marking off our dinner
was Shikampur Kebab (Rs 310). Chunky
pan-fried lamb and lentil cutlets were stuffed with a mixture of hung curd and
onions rounding off the dish with subtle tanginess. The mildly spiced kebab
melted in our mouths and needed no accompaniment of mint chutney. Subhash
attentively watched us eat, considering our neglect of condiments as a
compliment to his chef. The waiter then served us Murgh Seekh Gilafi (Rs 350). This kebab was colourful with slivers
of red and yellow bell peppers. Each bite was a nuanced delight of minced
chicken flavoured with garam masala. We
then indulged in the vegetarian Navratan
Kebab (Rs 210) prominent with carrots, peas, almonds, pistachio and
coriander, offering a melodious symphony of textures. Each bite infused with
nutty flavours left behind the promising sweetness of saffron. The starter of Machi Rubayat (Rs 425) was a dear one
to Subhash. Having lived along the coast, he grew up eating freshwater fish. He
spoke of his adherence to maintaining the temperature in storing fish, right
from the market to pan to retain its freshness. Maran fish was used for this dish which was seasoned with pickle
spices and notably mustard seeds, and cooked to succulence.
Machhi Rubayat |
We then waited with
anticipation for the main course. Our first main was the Gosht Marg Shorba (Rs 140). Subhash shared that sheermal would have been the perfect
accompaniment to this dish but he has faced sourcing troubles with this
saffron-infused Lucknowi flatbread. So he cajoled us to soak pieces of nan in the shorba letting it rest for a
minute before we eat. The shorba was a broth delicately flavoured
with cardamom and mint, juices and fats from the mutton and marrow bones. The
meat was so tender and the drenched nan made
for a heavenly bite. “This soup is
healthy, even for those on a diet”, he quipped.
Gosht Marg Shorba |
Gosht Kachi Akhni Biryani (375) arrived, the rim covered with dough. Its seal was broken to reveal
glistening long grain, saffron-stained rice. We were advised to eat it first
with the pasty mirchi salan and then
with raita. The lamb meat parted from the bone easily to mingle with rice
perked with green chili.
Gosht Kachi Akhni Biryani |
Khubani ka Meetha |
Such an enriching dining
experience deserved a sweet conclusion – we found that in Khubani ka Meetha (Rs 140). This was a stew of dried apricots and
sugar syrup with a compote-like consistency. It was topped with blanched
almonds, pistachios and thick cream. Its natural taste was elevated thanks to
the apricot quality (he sources them from Hyderabad). Every spoonful was bliss!
Food Story is a rich
flavour repository of Hyderabad’s centuries-old food heritage. Dining here will
be your privilege.
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Address: Ground floor, City Point building, Boat Club road,
off Dhole Patil road, Pune
Tel. number: 020-4121 6576
Average price for two: Rs 1500 (excluding alcohol)
Must have dish: Gosht Marg Shorba
This review was also published here.
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