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Restaurant Review | TIME AFTER TIME, The Central Park Hotel

My review for Time After Time was published on Burrp:

It’s not everyday you come across a restaurant named after a popular Cindy Lauper song. We visited recently to see if it lives up to its funky name.

At the end of a musty lobby at The Central Park is Time After Time. Walk in and the bold red walls come alive as they soak in the yellow lighting. Bamboo plants outside the windows add a serene touch to the view outside the restaurant window.

Browse through the menu and there’s plenty to pick from their European, Oriental and Indian selection. At the recommendation of our server,
 we ordered the Mushroom Sukkha Kalimiri (Rs 260) and a virgin Cosmopolitan (Rs 220). Sautéed in mustard seeds, fresh curry leaves, chopped ginger and garlic, the mushroom starter was an aromatic dish with distinctly coastal flavours. It needed a little salt, though a squeeze of lime juice seemed to instantly lift the dish as well. Packed with green chillies, this starter isn’t for the delicate palate. Thankfully for us, sips of the bubbly, pink Cosmopolitan offered welcome breaks between morsels. Made with triple sec and cranberry juice, the mock-tail was smooth, sweet yet mildly tart edge, courtesy the cranberry.
Mushroom Kalimiri
The Chicken Satay with peanut sauce (Rs 360), a popular find on Thai menus arrived with sixChicken Satay skewers to a plate. The chicken tore off the skewers beautifully, while the slightly charred portions were particularly delightful. The accompanying sauce was what stood out for us; it was not the traditional peanut sauce we expected. Instead, it was more like a coconut-based sauce, an ingredient that works dreamily with Thai cuisine.

Moving on, our main course, a Crepe with Creamy Ricotta, Herbed Broccoli and Spinach (Rs 360) was served after a 20-minute wait. The filling of spinach, ricotta and broccoli prepared in creamy white sauce had a subtle garlicky flavour, while the crumbled ricotta and crunchy broccoli added plenty of bite. However, the crepe to stuffing ratio was unbalanced – the stuffing was bursting out of the thin crepe and before long, we were left with only stuffing.

Our second pick was the Grilled Fish in Basil Orange Sauce (Rs 500)We were served three palm-sized, flour-coated fillets of surmai (King fish).Grilled Fish with Orange Basil SauceServed with French fries and steamed vegetables on the side, the fish was topped with thickish orange-infused sauce. While the basil was underplayed, the tangy and citrus, orange sauce complemented the pale white, firm textured fish well. If this is a little too adventurous, try the grilled fish paired with a traditional lemon butter sauce, that’s also available on the menu.

After the high of the appetizers and the low from the main course, we were eager to sample the
Nizami Shahi Tukda desserts. Unlike the rest of the menu, which is categorized according to cuisine, there is only one common dessert menu. Crème Caramel andNizami Shahi Tukda both priced at Rs 90 stood out among the other items. While both desserts arrived together, our eyes and taste buds were instantly drawn to the mint-speckled Crème Caramel. Glazed with burnt golden sugar syrup, we relished every light and wobbly bite of this perfectly sweet pudding. The Shahi tukda - a slice of diagonally cut shallow-fried bread was soaked in thick sweet saffron and cardamom infused condensed milk reduction. Its simple presentation made little difference to the bold taste of this royal Indian dessert, topped with chopped cashews.

Reminding us of old-school restaurant service style is Time After Time’s jovial and chatty restaurant manager who is often found engaging with diners about food. Despite a few hits and misses and some overpriced dishes, for its winning starters and desserts we will definitely return to this restaurant - time after time!

Must try: Crème Caramel and Mushroom Sukkha Kalimiri
Meal For Two: Rs 2,000 + taxes (without alcohol)


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